When I fill the rad and run the engine hot with the cap off the water boils over and flows outside the rad through the filler. Mostly high compression engines like 9 to 1 .Īs an example my 225 Dodge engine, compression probably 5 to 1, the overflow tank is built in the rad. These engines are designed to run at higher temperatures, sometimes at 180 degrees, therefor the 180 thermostat. You see the engines that uses the overflow tank has an outlet pipe on the filler neck to attach the flex tube to the overflow tank. I carry a one-gallon jug of water pre-treated with 5 oz of Penncool (dose is 1 oz per quart of cooling system capacity, the extra ounce is for makeup). In my 1934 (and my 1930 Pierce), both with no overflow recovery contraptions, I only have to add perhaps 6-8 oz of coolant (see below) every 600-700 miles. My choice for coolant additive is Pencool 2000 for cars with no anti-freeze at all, Pencool 3000 for systems with any amount of anti-freeze. When I have had to add anti-freeze for tours where the temps might drop below freezing, I add only the smallest dose of anti-freeze for the temps anticipated. With my climate, I run no anti-freeze but a generous amount of anti-corrosion / anti-cavitation additive. In SOME cars (my 1934 Pierce), a 50% mix of EG coolant would foam and displace coolant out the overflow at speed. Be sure that your water pump is not pulling air in at speed, and that your lower radiator if more than 5 or so inches long is not collapsing under the tremendous suction provided by these pumps. In earlier system with the cap directly atop the radiator, you can see the core and fill to just above the core itself, leaving room for expansion.Īt highway speeds, it is sometimes possible for the overflow caused by expansion to actually create a suction and pull additional fluid out of the radiator. If you fill to the top cold or cool, you will overfill as there is no room for expansion that coming with operating temperature. What I've learned to do is to top off the radiator only when the coolant is fully hot and expanded. The bad news for is that, if your radiator neck arrangement is like that on my 1934 Buick 56S of happy memory (and on my 1934 Pierce currently), the filler is underhood and at the very end of a curved piece leading to the top tank-making such a modification virtually impossible. Yes! A friend modified the necks on his 19 Buicks to achieve that, then used the remote expansion tanks from early 1960s FoMoCo V8s with 4-lb pressure caps. The top seal provides a much stronger seal so that the fluid that gets past the bottom seal must go back and forth to the overflow bottle. The get the fluid to go back into the radiator when it cools, you'd need a cap with a double seal, one seals at the bottom of the neck and one on top. The bottom seal is spring loaded to work at a specific cooling system pressure. So, with a cap like that the only thing gained by having an overflow bottle is catching the overflow. But what do you intend to do with it then ? If it's just an overflow tube where the cap only seals below where the tube attaches to the filler neck, it will expel hot expanded fluid, but it won't draw back because the cap is not sealed to the top of the radiator fill neck above where the tube comes out the side of the neck. How well it will work depends on the design of your radiator cap.
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